Hop on the historic train in the Pre-Pyrenees, just an hour from Barcelona. Enjoy panoramic views of crystal clear lakes, deep gorges and lush valleys as the train rumbles through mountains, bridges and tunnels.
TRAVEL DECLARATION: I was invited by the Spanish State Tourist Office. The organization has had no influence on the content of this article
On a platform at the modern train station, the dark green train from 1968 stands out from the crowd.
I’ve come to the Catalan city of Lleida because I want to hop on the historic train Tren dels Llacs (Train of the Lakes). The route is a 90 km railroad between the cities of Lleida and Pobla de Segur in the Pre-Pyrenees. It passes four lakes and goes over and under 75 bridges and 40 tunnels.
Historic and expensive train route
The Tren dels Llacs route opened in 1924, connecting Lleida with the city of Balaguer. In 1951, it was extended to La Pobla de Segur. At the time, it was the most expensive train line in Spain. It was originally intended to connect France with Andalusia, but the project was abandoned because the Pyrenees were in the way.
I’ve just settled into the train carriage, a time warp with green plush seats, when the old diesel locomotive whistles departure. Slowly we rumble out of Lleida towards the plains.
Through the lush landscapes and villages of the Pre-Pyrenees
The train has picked up speed and we travel north along the Segre River and through several villages. The train then makes a brief stop in the fortified town of Balaguer, where you can see the old city walls.
Before the highlight of the tour, I go to the train’s café car, with historic beer advertisements and photographs on the walls, and buy a cup of coffee. As I walk through the train carriages, I’m surprised that it’s far from full, as many Spaniards have recommended the tour to me. I later find out that this is because few tourists know about the route.
I enjoy my coffee by the window as we rumble under small bridges and narrow tunnels crossing olive, almond and vineyards.
Postcard-perfect lakes and cliffs
The train rushes into mountainous surroundings. The village of Sant Llorenç de Montgai and the reservoir of the same name glide past. Then the right side of the train becomes crowded as hands with cell phones fly out the open windows.
Next, we drive past the turquoise reservoir, Pantano de Camarasa, which carves its way through huge rock formations. It has us all hanging out the windows to get the best views. It feels like driving directly on the lakes.
Later, along the Noguera River, the rocky peninsula, Baronia de Sant Oïsme, with an old tower on top, juts out. We also get views of the dramatic Montsec mountain range with towering cliffs.
Catalonia’s largest lake and before the end of the line
The train now winds through a rolling, lush landscape to Lake Terradets, which stretches from the Conca de Tremp plain to the Terradets Gorge. We whizz past the town of Tremp, where you may be lucky to spot wild vultures. However, I wasn’t that lucky.
Before reaching the final stop in Pobla de Segur, the fourth and final lake of the tour awaits. Located in Pallars Jussà, Lake Sant Antoni is the largest freshwater lake in Catalonia and is the largest in Catalonia and great for water sports.
We arrive at La Pobla de Segur, located in a valley surrounded by mountains and lakes. I’m blown away by the stunning views and agree with those who recommended the train ride. Tren dels Llacs is the most beautiful train route I have traveled, not only in Catalonia, but in Spain.
Train tickets for Tren dels Llacs
The historic train runs from April to October every year. In July and August you can ride the modern panorama train. You can buy tickets for the train both with and without excursions. Buy tickets for Tren dels Llacs.
3 experiences on the route
1 Cathedral of Lleida
If you’re taking the Lakes train, I recommend you first stop by Lleida’s cathedral, Seu Villa, which towers high above the city from a hilltop.
The cathedral is also known as Lleda Castle and has become a symbol of the city. The neoclassical cathedral was built with strong inspiration from France and was completed in 1431. The octagonal tower is 60 meters high. Climb the tower and see the most beautiful panoramic views.
The cathedral also has a monastery and both are surrounded by a huge fortress complex of later date. Here you can walk around and enjoy breathtaking views of Lleida.
2 Casa Mauri
Located in the center of La Pobla de Segur, Casa Mauri is a beautiful example of Spanish modernist architecture. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, the complex consists of three buildings: the main house (where the town hall is located), an old oil mill and a fortress-like tower.
Here you can admire some of the elements that characterize modernism such as the colored mosaics, carvings and wrought iron details. You can also wander around the beautiful gardens with several fine sculptures and fountains.
Casa Mauri, Av. Verdaguer 37
3 LikørfabrikkenPortet 1883
When you go to a bar or restaurant in the province of Lleida, you can be sure you’ll be served a glass of local ratafía liqueur. The area’s most famous, and best, is made at the small Portet 1883 liquor factory, located in Pobla de Segur.
It’s great to visit the small factory and shop and listen to the owner, Ángel Portet, talk about how the liqueur is made. He produces 31 different kinds using a mixture of medicinal herbs, green nuts and spices, among other things. However, he keeps the recipes a secret.
Fàbrica de licors Portet 1883, Av. Sant Miquel del Pui 4
More travel tips for Catalonia
Find more Catalonia experiences in the guide to day trips out of Barcelona.
If you want to visit the Catalan capital, read our guide to some of the best hotels in Barcelona. Visit Barcelona’s cool neighborhood, Poble Nou, and taste green food at Barcelona’s vegetarian restaurants.
