Polbenou is one of Barcelona’s most bubbly, creative neighborhoods, yet free from the tourist hordes. Here you can blend in with the locals and a solid dose of culture fix.
El Poblenou was an industrial area in the early 19th century and known as the Manchester of Catalonia.
From the 1960s, industry thinned out, making way for housing. By the 1992 Olympic Games, Poblenou was modernized and fully integrated into Barcelona. This gave rise to 22@, which became the focal point for the city’s innovative technology companies.
Today, Poblenou is home to several art schools, art museums and galleries scattered among unused chimneys, apartment buildings, squares and tree-lined streets.
In the former factory buildings, creativity flourishes and you’ll find plenty of coworking spaces. With plenty of local charm and a wealth of small classic and modern shops, cafés, bars and restaurants, the neighborhood is a great mix of young creativity and traditional, quiet local life.
What to experience in Poblenou
Take a stroll down the Poblenous Rambla
Most people who have visited Barcelona have also zigzagged through hordes of tourists down the city’s famous Rambla in the Gothic Quarter.
Poblenou has its own Rambla where you can escape the tourist hordes. It is one kilometer long and runs from Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes to close to Bogatell Beach.
Rambla del Poblenou was created in 1853 and for decades locals have met on the benches here to chat about daily life. Along the Rambla there are plenty of shops, restaurants and bars mingling with fine buildings in Catalan modernism architecture.
At number 42 is the Casino de l’Aliança, which has been the center of the neighborhood’s social and cultural life since the late 19th century. At number 74 is the quirky bar, Monopol, which used to be a meeting point for the neighborhood’s football club and fans, and is now open to all.
Rambla del Poblnou
Digital art in the old cinema
IDEAL Barcelona is a former movie theater from 1917 that has been transformed into southern Europe’s first space dedicated to producing and showing digital art. A cultural center meets art gallery, IDEAL is where you can experience changing exhibitions covering large format projectors, interactive installations, holography and virtual reality.
Previous IDEAL exhibitions include Dalí Cybernetic – an immersive journey into the mind and works of Spanish artist Salvador Dalí and Tukankamon – a journey into historical Egypt. Currently, you can experience the Jules Verne exhibition, which celebrates the 200th birthday of the famous author.
Keep an eye on the website for future program.
IDEAL Digital Arts Center of Barcelona, C/ del Dr. Trueta 196
Charming square with history
Turn off the Rambla de Poblenou and into the small, very quiet side streets and you’ll find Placa de Prim tucked away in a corner.
The historic and charming plada is a quiet retreat with shady trees. The plaza is surrounded by some of Poblenou’s oldest houses, formerly inhabited by fishermen.
The square is also home to Els Pescadores, a restaurant with a terrace commemorating the square’s fishing past. Dating back to 1848, the seafood restaurant has evolved from being a local bar with slot machines to serving gourmet dishes based on the fresh catch of the day. The quiet space is also a cozy place to enjoy a to-go coffee.
Placa de Prim
See Catalan contemporary art
In a completely renovated factory complex from the late 18th century is the Can Framis Museum. It’s an overlooked art gem in Barcelona that offers a unique opportunity to gain insight into contemporary Catalan art.
Named after the former factory, the museum houses a collection of 300 works from the 1960s to the present day, spread over three floors. All the artists behind the works were born or live in Catalonia.
The quality of paintings, installations, sculptures and photographs is high. The collection is arranged in thoughtful ways, mixing time periods in the spacious rooms.
Featuring works by renowned artists such as Joan Miró and Antoni Tàpies, the museum’s highlights include the sculpture Sanna’s Frozen Dreams by Jaume Plensa, tapestry-style paintings by Victor Pérez-Porro and photographic portraits by Pedro Madueño.
The industrial concrete buildings are surrounded by a garden with trees and paths, and nature also becomes part of the exhibition inside. It is framed in square windows that symbolize canvases and blend beautifully with the works.
Can Framis, Carrer de Roc Boronat 116
Poblenous green lung
If you need to rest your legs, stop by the park. Don’t deny yourself a tour before enjoying your siesta on a bench.
Parc Central is an architectural gem designed by the famous French architect Jean Nouvel. It is located between Bilbao, Marroc, Bac de Ronda and Diagonal streets. The park is enclosed by organically shaped walls, covered in Mediterranean vegetation, and from the streets you can see the park through oval and round windows and gates with elaborate iron gates.
The 55,000 square meter park has plenty of carefully designed nooks and crannies where you can relax, surrounded by flowers, bushes and trees. The meeting point, Plaza de la Sardana, is surrounded by huts to stimulate children’s play. There are also sports areas, avenues with benches and sculptures. Nouvel focuses on the environment and the park is irrigated via a groundwater system.
Parc Central del Poblenou, Av. Diagonal 130
Young experimental art at the gallery
La Plataforma is one of Poblenou’s many exciting art galleries with a focus on young Spanish and international artists. The gallery represents the Danish, Berlin-based duo, Bigum+Björge, among others.
The gallery’s young artists have a playful and experimental approach to art without sacrificing important messages. La Plataforma also functions as a studio, so when you visit the gallery you can also see artists at work.
There are changing exhibitions and La Plataforma participates in several art events in the neighborhood. These include Poblenou Open Day, where they and other neighborhood creatives invite the public into their creative processes.
La Plataforma, Carrer de Pujades 99
Be active or that on the beach
After trawling the streets of Poblenou and breathing in the neighborhood’s creative vibe at museums and galleries, a cooling dip in the Mediterranean can do wonders.
Poblenous beach Bogatell is located on the other side of the main road, at the end of the Rambla. Its name comes from a former river that ran from Vilapicina in North Barcelona to the sea, and the area was also once inhabited by fishermen.
The beach is around 700 meters long and is one of the beaches that was renovated when Barcelona’s seafront was rebuilt for the 1992 Summer Olympics.
In addition to lazing on the fine-grained sand, Bogatell beach offers activities such as volleyball, football and table tennis. The atmosphere is cosmopolitan, but more mature and calm than the beaches in the center of Barcelona.
Playa de Bogatell
Where to eat and drink
Drinks at the theater
On Pierre VI street is the most beautiful renovated theater, Sala Beckett, which is one of my favorites in Poblenou. Named after the Irish playwright Samuel Beckett, the theater is housed in a beautifully renovated building from 1920.
Sala Beckett has a particular focus on promoting Catalan dramaturgy, with an extensive program of theatrical performances and events. In addition, the theater is a bubbling hothouse for theater professionals.
Adjacent to the theater is the bar and restaurant El Menjador de la Beckett, which is worth a visit – even if you’re not attending a performance at the theater.
A photograph of Samuel Beckett hangs at the end of the large bar and the place exudes artistic retro vibes. Enjoy a local vermouth, a glass of wine or a craft beer. If you’re hungry, you can get both a quick tapa and larger meals.
Take time to look around the building when it’s open. There are lots of exciting original details in this beautiful building.
El Menjador de la Beckett, Carrer de Pere IV
Coffee, coffee table books and vintage finds
If you’re in need of a good cup of coffee, stop by Casa Taos, which makes one of Poblenou’s best.
The specialty coffee is brewed with beans roasted in Barcelona. If you’re not a coffee drinker, stop by anyway. There is also a selection of teas and matcha lattes. With your coffee/tea you can enjoy a sandwich or homemade cookie.
Casa Taos is tucked behind a glass facade in a former factory building. Inside, the cozy interior is filled with vintage finds, all for sale. You can also shop for organic and ethically sourced products like chocolate and coffee, as well as local ceramics and skincare products.
While you enjoy your coffee, you can browse the café’s selection of art, design and architecture books, which you can also shop to take home.
The café overlooks the courtyard where the urban sustainable laboratory, Nest City Lab, is located.
Casa Taos, C. d’Àlaba 100
Croquetas in all shapes and sizes
All Spaniards have eaten croquetas (croquettes) since childhood, when most learned to love them from their grandmothers. Every Spanish bar serves them and there are as many varieties as there are bars.
The classic crispy deep-fried balls are rolled in breadcrumbs and filled with ex ham, mushrooms or cod and bechamel sauce.
The restaurant, Cata by Catacroquet, a modern bistro, has made the croquette its specialty and elevated it to a small culinary adventure. Here you won’t find the classic ham croquette, but 12 gourmet versions, including both savory and sweet.
Creations include Iberian pork jaw croquettes in sweet Pedro Ximenez sherry (highly recommended), monkfish and prawns, pulled pork and sweets such as cheesecake with brownie crunch. In addition to croquettes, Catacroquet also has a modern bistro menu. Enjoy the delights in the restaurant with exposed brick walls or on the terrace.
Cata by Catacroquet, C/ dels Almogàvers 211
A tour of natural wines
On white tiled walls, reminiscent of the walls of an industrial kitchen, hang several wooden shelves filled with wine bottles. Muted background music from a vinyl turntable plays, and the atmosphere is cozy, raw and industrial all at once.
Opened in 2023, the wine bar has already attracted a local, younger and natural wine-loving crowd. The atmosphere is good and relaxed.
Masa Vins describes itself as “Your living room, but with a fridge full of natural wines”, and there’s plenty to taste. The wine is available by the glass, so if you can drink more than one, you can taste more. The wines are both local and international. Local wines include Guerilla from Penedés and Free Bobby from Mallorca and there are also wines from France, Austria, Italy and Hungary.
With the wine, you can enjoy one of Masa Vin’s selection of snacks and tapas like kimchi grilled cheese and bikini sandwiches.
Masa Vins also has a bar in Madrid if you’re ever in the area.
Masa Vins, Carrer de Pallars 154
Tapas with the locals
If you follow the locals when they go out to eat, chances are you’ll pass the tapas bar El 58 on Rambla de Poblenou.
El 58 is a classic tapas bar, so try the traditional ones like marinated anchovies, patata bravas (spicy potatoes), squid and prawns. El 58 also has a large chalkboard with daily specials of seasonal dishes. Here you’ll find more modern versions of the small plates.
Enjoy them at one of the wooden tables if you can find a seat. They are often crowded. Alternatively, you can enjoy your tapas the Spanish way – standing.
El 58, Rambla de Poblenou 58
Where to shop in Poblenou
Designer market in the creative collective
Poblenou’s colorful Palo Market Fest is one of Barcelona’s hippest markets. One to two weekends a month, a former textile factory from 1856 and its green gardens are filled with stalls selling vintage and designer clothes and accessories, interiors mixed with food trucks and pop-up cocktail and beer bars.
You can drift between Barcelona’s up and coming creatives and design lovers to the sounds of hip music. There’s plenty to look at and plenty of opportunity to take breaks for snacks and drinks, so allow plenty of time. It is also recommended to buy tickets in advance via the website.
Behind Palo Market Fest is Palo Alto, one of Poblenou’s many creative communities. It consists of photographers, designers, architects and visual artists who have been creating sustainable art on site since 1989. The house also hosts regular art exhibitions,
Palo Market Fest, C/ del Pellaires 30
Vintage and modern art posters
Retro posters from movie classics such as Blow Up and Tarzan, advertising posters for Coca Cola, the Tokyo skyline, art posters from exhibitions including Goya and Bauhaus, cranes, flowers and exotic fish, a portrait of Sigmund Freud and the cover of La Plume magazine.
Moryarty’s spacious store is lined with over 2000 vintage and modern art posters in all genres and styles. There are classic art prints, photography, botanicals, old maps and drawings, vintage advertisements, lithographs, oriental art.
The entrepreneurial couple behind the project, Naman and Natàlia, find the retro images in museums and libraries and reprint them. The couple do not follow a trend, but select posters that they like. The artists behind the prints are both international and local, and in the shop you can find a souvenir that suits you and your home. You can also have your poster framed in the store and sent to your home address.
Next to the poster shop, Moryarty has another cozy – but small – shop where they sell plants. While you may not be able to shop for plants to take home, popping into the shop is worth the experience in itself.
Moryarty, C. de Pujades 140
Whimsical ceramics
Colorful bowls in several sizes, mugs, jugs and lamps with feet shaped like busts in bright colors and colored bulbs with twisted filament.
Kema Carámica is a true Poblenou shop where you can find a memorable, unique souvenir. The shop is behind a discreet facade, but colorful sculptures outside show what’s waiting inside.
If you want to create your own unique pottery, you can learn how to make a cup, bowl or plate in a workshop. You’ll be introduced to different techniques and get to play with colors. Once your ceramic piece is fired and ready to use, it will be shipped to you.
Kema Carámica, C/ de la Ciutat de Granada 88 Local 2