At a workshop held at a small country house in the heart of Valencia’s vegetable garden, you can learn how to make paella. You’ll also learn about the rituals that go along with eating paella. I’ve tried out the workshop, which is a unique local experience in Valencia.
The silence is so loud that you can hear a grain of rice fall to the ground as I arrive in the small village of Riola, 36 kilometres outside Valencia. Paella expert Rafael picked me up in Valencia and we drove out to his small, typical Spanish country house, surrounded by fragrant lemon and orange groves and beautiful rice fields.
At Rafael’s country house, I’ll be having Un dia de la paella (a day of paella) in the company of six tourists. Rafael will teach me how to make a real Valencian paella. This rice dish, made in a large, round metal pan, is associated with ancient, proud traditions. This applies to both the preparation of the dish and the way it is consumed, and I will obviously have to learn more about this when I am in Valencia, where paella originated.
Rice is grown according to ancient traditions
Rafael has teamed up with a couple of skilled assistants, and Maria begins the day by talking about rice cultivation, which is the most important crop in the area.
Riola is located on the Júcar River, whose water has been used for generations to irrigate the rice fields in the area.
The old, traditional irrigation systems are still in use, and people from other parts of Spain come here to learn about optimal rice cultivation. Today, the irrigation system is optimized by modern machinery and electric pumps, and it is monitored and controlled so that water is distributed evenly on different days across Rafael’s fields and those of the other rice farmers.
Maria shows us what the rice plants look like before they are harvested. Afterwards we get a tour of the farm. Maria says that most of the ingredients used in an authentic paella can be found in the countryside around the farm. This applies to rice as well as snails and wild rosemary.
A strong sangria goes with paella
After the introduction, Rafael pulls a surprise out of his sleeve. He’s decided that, as an extra treat, we’ll also learn how to make his sangria. According to him, it goes perfectly with the paella we’re going to make.
We’re supplied with red wine and spirits, and Rafael demonstrates the correct mixing ratios. He isn’t stingy with the alcohol, and a generous splash of cognac, gin, and vodka goes into the red wine.
We taste it with great pleasure before putting the pitchers in the fridge for later. Rafael’s kitchen assistant cuts up pears, apples, and orange slices for our sangria, which we can add to the pitcher along with ice before we’re ready to drink it.
Seafood is a mortal sin in a real paella
We are provided with aprons and chef hats, and then we are lined up at Rafael’s gas stove with paella pans. Paella is best made with gas, Rafael points out. He also believes that you have to make paella on its own for it to be really good. He challenges the other students on this claim when they are paired up at the flares. However, I am lucky enough to be the sole cook of my paella pan.
“A real paella does NOT contain fish or shellfish. That’s something that was invented for tourists,” Rafael says firmly. He then presents the ingredients for the paella we’re going to make (find the recipe here), which are laid out on the table:
Rabbit, chicken, various types of beans, tomatoes, saffron, and—of course—rice.
Under Rafael’s expert guidance, I get the meat and beans cooked in the right order, and strategically place the ingredients around the edge of the paella pan so that nothing gets over- or undercooked.
Tapas while the paella simmers
The last ingredient to be added to the paella is the rice. And they should not be poured on randomly, but placed in a fine strip in the middle of the pan, just as the layer should have a certain height. During this part of the process, I cheat and let Rafael take over the flame for a short note so I can photograph.
While the paella simmers, we sit down to a well laid table with delicious tapas like tortilla, cheese, homemade almonds, sausage and tomato. We sip tapas and drink good wine, and Rafael introduces us to the traditional, unwritten rules of eating paella.
Know the rituals when eating paella
Only the chef may place the paella pan on the table; after that, the guests choose their seats. It is forbidden to reach across to the other side of the pan and grab, for example, a piece of meat while eating, so seats are carefully chosen based on where the tastiest pieces of meat are on the paella.
According to Rafael, eating paella with a knife and fork is unforgivable. It’s a faux pas that immediately reveals whether you’re a tourist or a local. Paella must be eaten with a spoon. You’ll also be given a fork, but it’s only to be used to defend your pieces of meat if someone else at the table happens to sneak over to your side of the paella.
When the tapas, wine and rituals have all been digested, my paella is finished and I’m quite proud of the result. Rafael also seems pleased with his student, as he immediately poses for a photo with my paella.
Joint paella dinner and diploma
We end the day by eating the paellas we have made. Our sangria is chilled and filled with fruit and ice cubes before it is also served.
My paella tastes great, but since I’m alone with my portion, I can’t finish it. So I’ll bring home a doggy bag and have paella leftovers for later. For dessert we have an almond cake that Rafael has baked for us and a Valencian liqueur.
Certified paella chef
The day ends with each of us being handed a certificate stating that we have now learned to make paella and are therefore ambassadors for Valencian paella.
It’s been a fun and educational day in a very beautiful place. Rafael and his assistants are energetic, humorous, and very patient with their students. At the same time, they enjoy pampering their guests.
Even though I’ve now learned how to make paella, I’d gladly spend another day with Rafael in the name of paella. It’s a cozy atmosphere, and I gained much more insight into the culture surrounding paella and rice cultivation than I had expected.
Book a workshop on the website. You’ll be picked up in Valencia and driven back after the workshop is over.
Mi Paelle en el Huerto, Camí Racó, Riola, Valencia
Try Rafael’s recipes at home
If you’d like to try your hand at cooking and making sangria using Rafael’s recipes, check out the recipes for paella and sangria.
Be sure to also try Valencia’s signature drink, agua de Valencia, which is highly addictive.
More travel tips for Valencia
Find plenty of inspiration in the guide to Valencia, and enjoy Valencia’s green spaces with inspiration from the guide to sustainable experiences in Valencia. Be sure to check out the guide to design experiences in Valencia, too.
Don’t miss out on a local experience in the old fishing district of El Cabanyal and the trendy Ruzafa neighborhood.
