Vitoria-Gasteiz is the Basque Country’s new gastronomic mecca and a must-visit for any foodie. The city’s many award-winning pintxos, in particular, are worth the trip. You’ll also find excellent classic dishes at places like the cider restaurant in the Basque capital.
1 A Local Favorite
On a small hill, close to Vitoria-Gasteiz’s central Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, lies the pintxos bar El Toloño. Several people have recommended this bar to me, so it’s the first stop on my poteo ( the Basque term for going from bar to bar and sampling pintxos).
The bar, restaurant, and terrace are all packed, so things are looking promising. There’s a mix of everyone here—from middle-aged couples to groups of young friends—and the atmosphere is lively.
El Toloño has been in business since 1995. The bar is run by head chef Josu Armiño, who takes pride in highlighting the ingredients as he creates both classic and modern interpretations of pintxos.
They say you can tell a good pintxos bar by its gilda, so I order one. A gilda consists of a green manzanilla olive, an anchovy, and a pickled green guiddilla pepper, all skewered on a cocktail stick. It tastes fantastic, thanks to the high-quality ingredients, so I’m eager to try more samples.
The waiter recommends the house millefeuille with horse beans and smoked mackerel, which won the Basque pintxos championship. I love the combination of mild and smoky flavors, and I can definitely see why it won an award.
With my pintxos, I enjoy a glass of Txakoli, a Basque, slightly fruity, dry sparkling wine that pairs perfectly with my pintxos.
El Toloño, San Frantzisko Aldapa 7
2 Pintxos in a Surprisingly Avant-Garde Style
“La Vacuna” (the vaccine) is the name of the first pintxo I’m served at PerritxCo, which is also located in the heart of Vitoria-Gasteiz. And just like that, the stage is set for pintxo experiences that are both edgy and humorous.
La Vacuna consists of a beef meatball with a crispy crust, filled with cream cheese and topped with tobiko (flying fish roe). The beef patty is served on a plate with beef sauce in a plastic syringe on the side. I squeeze the sauce into the patty. The concentrated sauce adds a creamy and warm flavor to the well-seasoned ground beef and crispy pastry.
PerritxCo is owned by the self-taught chef Josean Merino, who is considered by many to be one of Spain’s best pintxos creators. He has a reputation for both surprising diners and blending classic and avant-garde styles. This has earned him numerous accolades in pintxos competitions in the Basque Country.
La Vacuna developed Merino during the COVID-19 pandemic to add a touch of humor to these dark times. It’s not just a fun treat—it’s also exceptionally tasty—and this innovative pintxo has won an award in the Basque Álva pintxo competition.
PerretxiCo is packed with people by the time I get to my next pintxo: a delicious crab tartlet with a San Sebastián-style gratin.
I’ll wrap up with another winner: a Basque doughnut filled with stew, which took second place in a national competition.
The unsweetened doughnut, glazed with a cream made from bacon and ham bones, is served in a basket on a bed of dried chickpeas. It is filled with a Basque chickpea stew with pork. The doughnut is accompanied by a hearty broth, which is drunk on the side.
The doughnut is a rich and surprising taste experience that pairs perfectly with the mild, light broth. PerritxCo and Merino is truly a place I’d love to visit again and again.
PerretxiCo, 3 San Antonio Street
3 Maritim, featuring some of the city’s best seafood
Behind a sea-blue facade lies La Escortilla, which features a maritime-inspired interior with light wood paneling, sea-blue colors, and large black-and-white photographs of fishermen.
La Escortilla is owned and operated by Josean Merinos, the same chef behind PerritxCo. At La Escortilla, however, the focus is on fresh seafood and rice dishes. The restaurant opened in 2016 and quickly became a local favorite for seafood.
La Escortilla offers two different menus that change with the seasons. I order one featuring a taco shell with bluefin tuna and truffle mayonnaise, Iberian ham, grilled scallops, and creamy rice with monkfish and shrimp.
All the dishes are simple, and the flavors of the seafood really shine here. I especially love my bluefin tuna taco. Spain has world-class tuna.
The high-quality ham is a nice change of pace between the tuna and the scallops, which are also truly delicious. And when I taste the rice dish, I truly understand why La Escortilla is so popular. Creamy rice with a satisfying bite and the intense flavor of fresh shrimp and monkfish makes my taste buds sing.
I drank a MITARTE Rosado with my meal. This rosé wine comes from the Rioja Alavesa region and has won several awards. It’s dry and fresh and pairs perfectly with both fish and rice.
La Escortilla has only a few tables inside the restaurant and out on the patio, and it’s always packed—even at the bar. So be sure to make a reservation in advance.
La Escotilla, 5 San Prudencio Street
4 Modern pintxos and set menus
Waska is located near Vitoria-Gasteiz’s beautiful Florida Park, and it features both a large bar where you can enjoy pintxos and a restaurant that seats 40 people.
The head chef and owner is Carlos Davalos, who is responsible for both the popular pintxos and the restaurant’s menus, which feature a modern twist. Waska was awarded a sun in the Guía Repsol in 2023, and many people recommend both its pintxos and menus.
I chose the menu, which changes with the seasons. I started with a toast topped with buffalo mozzarella, tomato tartare, and caramelized red onions. Simple and delicious—the flavors harmonized perfectly, and the tomato really had character.
My main course is sea bass with beet sauce and creamy cauliflower. The fish is fresh and juicy, and I love the combination of mild cauliflower and the slight tang of the beet sauce. I finish with a mascarpone mousse with fresh strawberries, which is also delicious. All in all, I think Davalos excels at highlighting mild-flavored ingredients and pairing them with sides that really bring out their flavors.
The next time I stop by, I’m going to explore the pintxos here in more depth.
Waska, 5 Calle Ramón Ortiz de Zarate
5 Classic Basque Dishes at the Cider Restaurant
No visit to the Basque Country is complete without sampling the classic dishes for which the region is so well known. That’s why I’m heading to the cider restaurant, La Sidre, located in the Armentia neighborhood of Vitoria-Gasteiz. The Armentia neighborhood was formerly a suburb of Vitoria-Gasteiz, and today it is home to the upper middle class, as well as several government buildings and museums.
La Sidre is beautifully situated in a traditional Basque stone house, surrounded by nature. Inside, the atmosphere is cozy, with tiled walls, dark wood furniture, and tablecloths on the tables.
La Sidre has been around since 1983 and is one of the classic cider restaurants serving traditional Basque grilled dishes, accompanied by local cider.
Vitoria-Gasteiz is located in the heart of the region, so it offers easy access to both seafood—since the coast is nearby—as well as high-quality beef and fresh vegetables from the surrounding farms.
I order the lunch special, which is made with local ingredients: leeks in vinaigrette, blood sausage, cod omelet, and grilled ribeye. It proves why the food in Vitoria-Gasteiz is so good. I love the leeks. The vinaigrette is mild enough not to overpower the leeks.
The signature dish, the grilled ribeye, is truly tender and flavorful and grilled to perfection. It’s served with a small side of salad and homemade french fries.
Of course, I’m served cider, which is poured in a long, thin stream. Cider must be poured correctly and in small amounts to preserve the lightness of the bubbles and the fresh flavor. The cider is dry, light, and fruity, and pairs well with vegetables, fish, and meat.
I’ll finish off with a cup of coffee in La Sidre’s lush garden. Book a table in advance. Especially if you come on a Sunday, when many locals have lunch with their families at La Sidre.
La Sidre, Larrintzar Kalea 3
More Travel Tips for Vitoria-Gasteiz and the Basque Country
Before you sample the flavors of Vitoria-Gasteiz, take some time to explore this beautiful city. You’ll find plenty of tips for things to do in the guide to Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Bilbao is also a fantastic city if you enjoy good food. For example, visit and dine at the famous Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao.
Be sure to enjoy some of the city’s cultural experiences, which you’ll find in the Bilbao guide, and be sure to stop by the city’s trendy La Vieja neighborhood, where you can check out street art and grab a bite or a drink at some cool bars.
